Archive for November, 2009

Life in Chamonix

Thursday, November 5th, 2009

Life in Chamonix

I relocated to the mystical valley of Chamonix at the beginning of 2006 quite by chance. Faced with the usual career dilemmas of a graduate midway through a third gap year, and fresh from the hedonistic hub of Kathmandu, I accepted an offer of employment in a well-known Irish bar called the Jekyll to tide me through the decision process. That was four years ago, and I am still here! One could put this down to a lack of discipline, a fear of the ‘real world’ or some strange fetish for bread dunked in melted cheese but I hold strong that it is because I have found a paradise!

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If you are thinking of relocated to the Chamonix valley it is interesting to look into the history of the area, from the very beginning of the tourist trail set by Englishmen such as Windham and Pococke as far back as 1741. The exploits of these two pioneering mountaineers were published in journals throughout Europe and it was not long before visitors flooded to the valleys to explore the seas of ice for themselves. Amongst those visitors, Mary Shelley, who took inspiration from the wild and aesthetically stunning scenery, and her husband poet Percy Shelley and friend Lord Byron.  Today the valley has a recorded 10 000 year round inhabitants, which swells to about 20 000 during the tourist seasons and it is estimated that a further 100 000 tourist in the valley on any given day during the high season.

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It is therefore safe to say that Chamonix town does not necessarily provide the Alpine Retreat that many crave; it is a vibrant cosmopolitan place with an infallible energy that infects all who lives here. The town provides hip restaurants, trendy bars, chick shops, cultural gatherings, and sporting event after event. The year kicks off with wild festivities in the town square at New Year, the alpine version of Leicester Square, half the size but twice the atmosphere. The winter then sees Downhill Ski Championships, Freeride World Tours, Inter-resort moggle competitions amongst others. The summer months bring with them the appearance of the ‘lycra’, triathlon events, trail running competitions, climbing championships and the well earned beer festival.

Hidden away under the rooftops of the old town, you can find property gems galore. Many of the apartments maintain their traditional look, wooded staircases, iron lifts, and double pained windows. Though a little archaic at times, these old buildings hold a charm that cannot be recreated in new builds. Many, however, have been revamped, and luxury penthouse apartments are hot on the lists of the local agents. Away from the hub of the town, out in the countryside of Servoz, Les Houches, or Argentière and Vallorcine, the Alpine Retreats take the stage. Here is it possible to find dream chalets hidden in forest clearings, away from hustle and bustle of the town. I often stumble across old converted farmhouses, with original wooden beams yet modern panoramic windows and state of the arc designs that make your heart beat and turn the dullest of scientists into passionate artists!

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I quickly remember why I am here, and whole heartedly recommend it to others; the quaint corners, the sparkling people, and that is before I even mention life above the snow line…